Yes, I am covering yet another dish that has been written extensively by all and sundry.
First, a little bit background which I sourced from Wikipedia:
Boat noodles or kuai tiao ruea is a Thai style noodle dish, containing both pork and beef, as well as dark soy sauce, pickled bean curd and some other spices. It is normally served with meatballs and pig’s liver. Here's the vampirish part - the soup also contains cow or pig's blood mixed with salt, to season the soup. They are usually served with pork crackling and basil to reduce the bloody smell.
Boat noodles have been served since 1942, and were originally sold from boats that traversed Bangkok's canals. If the bowl is too big, it might easily spill while being handed over to the customer on the land. This is the reason why the boat noodle’s bowl is small.
If you ask the Thais, they will tell you to eat boat noodles at the Victory Monument. You don't have to row a boat to get there (okay, I will show myself out for this). Just alight at the Victory Monument BTS station, look for the exit, exit, walk straight till you see the Victory Monument in front of you, take a selfie, turn right and walk till you see this row of boat noodle restaurants beside a canal (pic below). The one that every blogger swears by, with two fingers crossed, is at the end of this row, after you cross a tiny street. Their staff are dressed in orange tops (don't worry, they are fully dressed. I can't recall the colour of their pants, that's all).
The menu is limited which makes ordering really easy. You should just order one of each item to try because the portions are really miniscule.
Each tiny bowl of noodles cost only 12 baht and if you don't pretend to be delicate, you can eat them in one mouthful. It is common to see stacks of bowls at each table. I ordered the first three types listed on the table stand and the streaky pork with crispy crackling.
They were very nice but frankly, I would rather come clean and say you don't have to travel out of your way for this. Compared to your usual variety of roadside noodles, I guess what they stand out is the novelty of their history and the quirkiness of their portions. And for the vampires, there's always that blood infusion thingy. But there was no regrets on my part too.
As for why the other similar restaurants at the front of the row have not been touted online, I might just try one of them on the next trip and serve them some justice (or not). The first one on the block looks way better + more spacious and comfy than the one I reviewed.
Oh yes, the Victory Monument:
The monument was erected in June 1941 to commemorate the Thai victory in the Franco-Thai War. The central obelisk is designed in the shape of five bayonets clasped together. Five statues stand around it, representing the army, navy, air force, police and militia. The end.
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